SLINO Design Files

Please Note:
I am publishing this information as a personal reference only. If you chose to replicate it, it is at your own risk. This information carries no warranty and has not been thoroughly thought through or engineered. Building and sailing a moth to this design could seriously hurt you and/or cost you a lot of money and/or cause emotional damage.

If you do attempt to replicate derivate from this information please send me an email – I am always interested to see where this design leads. (mr.markla@gmail.com)


See Also:
http://perverted-moth.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-moth-design.html


Documents and Calculations
SL2-A1-01A - Drawing and Document List
SL2-A1-02A - SLINO Build Sequence
SL2-A1-03 - Parts List
SL2-B1-01 - Weight Estimate
SL2-B2-01 - Table of Hydrostatics
SL2-B2-02 - Resistance Prediction


Drawings
SL2-C1-01 Side Profile Drawing
SL2-C1-02A - General Arrangement

SL2-D1-01A - Hull Lines Drawing

SL2-E1-01A - Hull Construction Drawing
SL2-E1-02__04A - Hull Construction Details
SL2-E2-01__02A -  Centreboard Construction Drawing
SL2-E3-01 Stem and Transom Lug Construction Details
SL2-E4-01 Wing Mounts Construction Details

SL2-F1-01A - Wing Assembly
SL2-F2-01A - Gantry Construction Drawing
SL2-F3-01A - Spreader Construction Drawing
SL2-F4-01A - Running Rigging Arrangement
SL2-F5-01__02A - Cradle Arrangement

SL2-G1-01A - Control System Arrangement
SL2-G1-02A - Control System Parts

SL2-H1-01A - Hull Jig Assembly
SL2-H1-02A - Deck Jig Assembly
SL2-H1-03A - Foredeck Jig Modification

SL2-I1-01A - Carbon Cut File (1)
SL2-I1-02A - Carbon Cut File (2)
SL2-I2-01A - MDF Cut File (1)
SL2-I2-02A - MDF Cut File (2)
SL2-I3-01A - Hull Panel Marking
SL2-I3-02A - Deck Panel Marking


Rhino Models
All models have the same zero point, so you can import (or worksession) the components into a single file.
SL2-R1-01A - Hull Construction
SL2-R1-02A - Hull Jig
SL2-R1-03A - Wings

SL2-R2-01A - Centreboard

SL2-R3-01A - Rudder

SL2-R4-01A - Control System

SL2-R5-01A - Wing Sail

SL2-R9-01A - Cradle

Weather at Belmont

While I am loathed to average and average, the above is the average of the wind speed at the 3 closest weather stations at 9am and 3pm.

Make of it what you want.

Original spreadsheet here.

Data found here.

Ride Your Bike

Markla and I have been doing a fair bit of mountain biking as fitness for the mothing. This weekend we're hitting the road though for a 100km charity ride from Brisbane to the Gold Coast. The forecast is fantastic, 20 knots on the nose and rain...yippee...sigh :(
And it's freakin' magpie season! How did I get talked into this?

It seems I haven't commented on the wing sail yet. What little I've seen looks like a very good implementation. Still a bit nervous/dubious about its durability but that can only be proven one way or the other over time. I hope it holds together and is a successful new addition to moth development because I can't wait to start building one...although still want to work on the transportability issue.

SLINO is back together with a couple of mods...nothing that hasn't been implemented by others previously though; a Lister lever (of some description) and a tension linkage system. We felt the tension system was easier to implement and trouble shoot than the pushrod, especially with temperamental foils. The main foil got a coat of paint and a fine wet and dry so is looking considerably better than before. If the Lister level doesn't "Chernobyl", the rudder hinge will be locked off and faired to reduce drag, maybe even get a bit of a shortening of the span. There were some annoying issues with the pocket luff material of the North sail, but that has been given a work over by the local sail maker. Also trying to get the rig right, we felt the mast was not bending correctly so have played with the spreaders, they're a fair bit closer to the mach2 geometry now.

And who is NZL 3315? It appears you've gotten a slightly out-of-place photo on the interwebs...

http://www.surtees.co.nz/home.aspx
(Not associated with this company, just found it randomly.)

4 – Accident With Local Consequences / steve mothing

there was an unnatural amount of dust gathering on boat, and we finally had wind for the first time in months so we tried to take the boat out today. water was the coldest i have ever felt the gold coast.


session finished 20mins later after I chernobylled another gantry and push rod.



nick took a short vid of steve sailing:


Click me for more photos of Steve.

spreader construction booring.

while the world is ablaze with wing rigs, I just did a booring sketch woot to answer the question below.

Hi Mark,

...The cut file you provided included spreaders, but judging from your email you haven’t converted these into a finished product previously? My plan is to tip the spreaders with glass to stop the wear from the stays, and to add uni down the sides to cover the core and to give it some more strength. The Bladerider spreaders have a protrusion on the spreaders that fits into the fitting on the mast that you sent a photo of. I’ll search in the Ronstan catalogue for something similar to the fitting that John Illet uses on his spreaders, but in the absence of a ready made solution, I’ll just cast something in glass....

Yeah, I had every intention of making myself carbon spreaders, but I had an alloy set lying about and I have been using them ever since.
The cabon cut file for the spreaders is still sitting in the garage and may get finished some day.

Attached is a drawing about how I was going to do it.
The key is:

• Remove the core from the tips of the spreaders.
• Lay up some solid fiberglass (not carbon - glass is harder wearing, alternating passes of double bias or woven roving is ideal) plate to 5mm thick
• Cut the fiberglass plate to shapes that will fit inside the decored area.
• Glue the fibreglass plate in and then lay some 200 uni carbon (UD-C) over the top of the cut part over the length of the spreader arms.
• The spreader base can be made the same way, cut an E glass part that is approx 60x20, with a radius and a pin hole where it will attach to the mast.
• The UD-C should lap over the top of the protruding part of the E Glass plate.
• Ronstan part is RF917 with the pulley drilled out

I haven't tested this laminate yet, but seeing how light on the prowler spreaders are I think it should work. As soon as the UD-C has cured you should have a good idea if it is strong enough.

Cheers

Mark.